Fifteen members and friends joined walk leader Charles Kay on a pleasantly warm day for our literary and artistic walk around the beautiful area of Holland Park in Kensington. This year’s late spring meant that the wide avenues and front gardens were in full bloom with wisteria, lilac and crab apple blossom.
Blue plaques adorn many of the houses – this area was home to a host of writers, artists, architects and musicians, known as the Holland Park Circle. We passed the former homes of J M Barrie, Cecil Day-Lewis, Kenneth Grahame and Agatha Christie as well as those of former mistresses and lovers. Charles kept us entertained with their stories.
After lunch at the Elephant and Castle, we carried on to Leighton House, the wonderfully eccentric home of Frederick Leighton, artist and President of the Royal Academy of Arts. Then it was a stroll through Holland Park, ablaze with tulips in every shade of pink, purple and red, before taking the bus back to Victoria.
Robbie Grieve
Tip Toeing through the Tulips and Wisteria in Kensington
What treats Charles had in store for us as he led us through the quiet, tree lined streets of grand Kensington terraces. We had many a blue plaque moment en route as Charles fed us pertinent information on the past occupant. J M Barrie, Kenneth Grahame, G K Chesterton, James Joyce were among the many literary people mentioned. Green Lodge, lived in by Agatha Christie in the 30’s, was the only house in which she had a room designated for writing.
After a good lunch we carried on and then came my personal favourite place, Edwardes Square, named after William Edwardes, 2nd Lord Kensington who owned the land as part of the Holland House Estate. Leigh Hunt, a resident from
1840-51 related the story that it had been laid out ‘at the time of the threatened invasion from France’ for the purpose of providing ‘cheap little houses’ for ‘the promenading tastes and poorly-furnished pockets of the ensigns and lieutenants of Napoleon’s Army’. As construction of Edwardes Square did not begin until 1811, when the threat of a French invasion had been over for several years, there can be no truth in the story. Those living around the square now must have a wonderful view of the magnificent gardens in the centre.
We trooped on to Leighton House home and studio of Lord Leighton, famous Victorian artist who became President of the Royal Academy. The highlight for me was the wonderful collection of tiles in the Arab Hall, which he obtained on a visit to Damascus, and the richness and depth of colour had to be seen to be believed. The gently tinkling fountain provided an atmosphere of quiet contemplation.
By now refreshment was needed and we had tea in Holland Park. We took the scenic route out past the Dutch garden crammed full of big, showy tulips of many colours, then into wild, more natural parkland of shrubs and pond, an unexpectedly quiet oasis nearby Kensington High Street. From there we hopped on a bus back to Victoria followed (for me) by quiet reflection in the train of the lovely images held in my head of another excellent walk devised by Charles. And it didn’t rain!
Dot Watson
WALKING IN ANOTHER WORLD
Strolling through the elegant terraces and groves of Kensington and HollandPark on an overcast but dry day – only a short distance from the busy High Street and bus-laden roads – we slowly moved into another world; quiet and thought-provoking. Rows of tall, immaculate houses (mostly painted a startling white) were enhanced by huge swathes of wisteria in all its blue/purple glory, adding an extra touch of grandeur to what were once the dwellings of the wealthy, birthplaces and homes of the famous. Were Agatha Christie, J.M. Barrie or W.S. Gilbert inspired by their elegant surroundings, the peace of these elegant byways? Passing Kenneth Grahame’s house, did he – in fading evening light – conjure up Toad, Ratty, Mole and Badger? Even in the stillness of the morning it was easy to understand how writers, musicians and artists were inspired.
Imagine these quiet byways in Victorian times… The glow of lamplight, clip-clop of horses, rattle of carriage wheels and banter of cabbies would all have contributed to a magical atmosphere conducive to inspiration. Very unlike the car-crammed, blaring world of today… So much has been lost – but how much gained?
Leighton House Museum is a hidden gem – though I found it somewhat forbidding. Although largely reconstructed after WW2 damage and the dispersal/sale of many of his treasures after his death, much care has been taken in reconstruction, based on photographs/illustrations of the original. Strange to see so many religious objects and paintings in the home of a declared atheist. A bonus was the beautiful garden, a burst of colour after the sombre atmosphere of the house.
Back to the real world – tea in Holland Park. The finale – a sea of countless multi-coloured tulips, shining in the sun.
Beryl Fleming